Wednesday, July 6 - Friday, July 8, 2011

Days #1-3: Arrival in Madrid & the FUTON


So this adventure has gotten off to a bit of a rough start...

I arrived Wednesday afternoon, knowing I would need a day or two to get over the jet lag. Laid low Wednesday, got into my apartment without any trouble, took a walk to the Plaza Mayor and Puerta del Sol, and turned in kind of early. I decided to not set an alarm for Thursday morning and just let myself sleep off the rest of the jet lag. Little did I know I would sleep for hours into the afternoon while the apartment's futon slowly destroyed my back. I woke up yesterday afternoon dazed and barely able to walk, my back hurt so bad. I hoped it would be better this morning, but I was basically useless today, too! I made it to the pharmacy down the street for some painkillers and gave up sleeping on the futon - instead I am sleeping on the hard floor, which seems to be helping my back a bit. I and determined to get out tomorrow and see this beautiful city!!!!! I have a large agenda planned and will NOT let a bad back get in the way!

I the meantime, here are some pictures of my studio apartment! That is basically the extent of my sightseeing so far in Madrid. :) It is TINY and reminds me of an IKEA ad...

The steps up to the apartment. There are 63 of them! Makes me feel like I'm back home!



Outer door.



Random pics of the apt:



Didn't get a chance to buy detergent yet!


Looking out the window into the building's airshaft:




THE FUTON!!!!!

Friday, July 8, 2011

Neat Pharmacy Moment


Forgot to share.. When I went to the pharmacy, all deformed and bent over because of my throbbing back, the woman at the counter placed a little tube on the counter next to the meds and said, "Here, this is free."

I figured (without looking at it) that she was being nice and giving me something extra for the pain because she felt sorry for me. I looked at her and asked if I should just rub it all over my back.

She grimaced in disgust and explained that it was a free toothpaste sample. Something that would have been obvious if I had actually looked at the tube which clearly had the Spanish phrase for "toothpaste" right on the front. Niiiiiiiiccceeeeeee.........

Here's a pic of the toothpaste I would have been smearing all over my back if I hadn't asked that question:











Saturday, July 9 - Sunday, July 10, 2011

The Back is BACK!!!

After a few rough days, I finally feel "back" to normal and ready to conquer the city. The meds and close call with the toothpaste have left me feeling great and I spent the weekend taking walks around old Madrid, the neighborhood surrounding the Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor, as well as the neighborhood directly south called La Latina. Sunday is the famous flea market called El Rastro, in which entire streets are shut down to accommodate vendors' stalls. It's the largest flea market in Europe and truly a sight to behold.

On Saturday evening I befriended some Morracans at a cafe and we spent the evening discussing Morocco and its new constitution. On Sunday afternoon I met a really nice British couple at the Museo de Jamón and we discussed life in Northern England and their many trips to the USA, including an incident in which they visited a Wendy's that had a bar complete with pool table inside it (???!!!) at the Grand Canyon. Who knew??

I also found a bar in my neighborhood of Malasaña that I have staked out as my own. A bar in Spain, remember, is not a place just for alcohol, but also a restaurant and a café where you can eat tapas and sip coffee from early morning until late at night, if you want. They have free WIFI, so I predict many of my blog posts will be written there from here on out. :)

Enjoy my pics from the weekend!

The Plaza Mayor- Madrid's main square:




Un bocadillo de calamaris - fried calamari sandwich, it was AWESOME!




Two pictures from the Rastro. Was kind of hard to take pictures because people want you to buy their stuff, not photograph it and move on...








The San Isidro Church, looming over the La Latina neighborhood.




La Cervecería Alemana, famous bar in the Plaza de Santa Ana, a favorite hangout of Ernest Hemingway!




During my walk on Sunday I decided to duck into the newly renovated Mercado de San Miguel, right off the Plaza Mayor. It is a very OLD public market that has been remade as a posh, fancy market with all sorts of expensive products. Bleh. Kind of sterile and boring. But a really pretty building!








Interior of the famous "Museum of Ham," a chain of combination deli, bar, and restaurants that specialize in... Well you get the picture. I need to return and get some better pictures of this place... From this angle you can't see the hundreds of pig legs hanging from the ceiling. This is where I met the Brits. It's totally touristy, but like most tourist spots in Madrid, there are plenty of Spaniards there as well.




Last but not least, a typical free tapa with a drink. This happens to be a plate of fried sardines. Delicious! Free tapas can range from this, which is fairly generous, to a piece of bread with meat, to a spoonful of potato salad, or to nothing at all. Depends entirely on the whim of the waiter or bartender.




Monday, July 11, 2011

LA TORRE DEL ORO

Anyone who has ever been to Madrid's Plaza Mayor has seen this quirky little hole in the wall bar/café. It is entirely bullfight themed, with framed photographs of bullfighting victories... and accidents... covering every possible surface. Whenever I pass by I can't help but duck inside for a snack, chat with the really friendly staff (all old guys), and stare at the pictures. Today I asked if I could take a few photos of the bar and was mysteriously instructed to take them of only two walls and a corner, and no where else... So here are a few pictures of two walls and a corner of LA TORRE DEL ORO.

















I snagged a picture of the rest of the bar right at the end. You can see how tiny this place is! The lighted cases on the bar are filled with food you can order as a meal for yourself or a ración (large serving) to share among













Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Madrid sightseeing and LOTS of walking!


Today I set out early in the morning for a day of touristy sightseeing. It was great!

First I stopped by a little chocolatería that specialized in Valor brand chocolate (a Spanish standard) for a breakfast of churros con chocolate. Thick molten chocolate, deep fried dough, and a fresh copy of the daily paper El País. What could be better?





Then I set out for a walk through town on my way to a 400 year old monastery that still has cloistered nuns living there, completely cut off from the outside world. The guided tour was pretty cool and culminated in the relic room, which featured box after box of bones, complete with skulls, fingers, and vials of blood. We walked through the chapel on our way out. It still has mass three times daily, open to the public. We got to see the secret chamber off to the side of the altar where the nuns attend mass (they can't mix with or see the public during mass). Unfortunately I wasn't allowed to take pictures. I quietly asked the tour guide if we were allowed to and she answered me loudly that NO, pictures are NOT allowed! Yikes.

Then I went for a brief stroll through the Royal Gardens surrounding the Royal Palace. I didn't enter the palace, because I remember a horrifically boring tour I barely survived many years ago. Another room of tapestries? Sure! Then another room of them after that? Great! Once was enough. :)










After the gardens and snapping pictures of the palace, I entered Madrid's cathedral. For a country with such a profound Catholic history, the cathedral of Madrid is surprisingly understated. In a country in which every city has its own ancient cathedral, Madrid's was just finished in 1992! It has modern touches throughout and is very nice inside. The absolute best part of my visit was the climb to the cúpula, or central dome. From the viewing deck of the dome I got a great view of all of Madrid, and the mountains in the distance reminded me that Madrid is actually the highest capital city in all of Europe! Easy to forget in the summer heat of downtown.






Banners hanging in front of cathedral entrance - the Pope's comin' to Madrid in August whoop whoop!





Inside the cathedral:









The base of the dome from inside the cathedral:





Get ready to start climbin some stairs!





The view from the top! First a video, then pictures. :)
























The Royal Palace and the Cathedral face each other. Part of the courtyard was closed for construction, as you can see.





After the descent from the dome, I found the Arab Wall, the last remaining fragment of the protective wall built when the Moors still controlled most of Spain and Madrid was called Maj'rit.






I crossed back through town and took a walk down the Paseo del Prado, a nice park-like area between a major road by the same name. Lots of federal government offices and company headquarters line this street, which makes for some pretty cool architecture. The famous Prado art museum is on this street, and the street ends at the Atocha rail station. I took a break for another calamari sandwich at a famous bar/restaurant called El Brillante, and briefly walked through the station. Its old section has been converted into a tropical garden, which is pretty nifty.





























The Atocha station:













At this point it was HOT and I was tired, so I headed back to the apartment for a siesta.... and abandoned my plans for the rest of the day. I was going to go back to visit the Prado museum during its free evening hours, but was not feeling any more tourism for the day. So I am currently in my local bar/café, sipping a coffee, reading the paper, and putting this blog together, then heading up to a sightseeing-induced coma! Here's a pic of the bar:







¡HASTA MAÑANA!